S4-2-300C. Bad motor mounts don't always result in clunking. If you've noticed a gradually increasing rough idle (sometimes mild and hard to notice) added vibration or noise under WOT, or vibration or noise under a low gear decel (like engine braking in first gear from 25 MPH to 5 MPH) it could all be a bad mount.
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up. 5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF". 6) Start the engine. Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming.
L2 is the Chinese Chrysler 300. LE41 is not "export" but "Europe." LH207 was the Chrysler LHS/New Yorker for 1994-1997. LX41 is the Chrysler 300 and Dodge Charger, LX48 is the wagon version of the 300, LX49 is the Magnum LY41 is the Chrysler 300 and Dodge Charger, LY48 is the wagon version of the 300, LY49 is the Magnum MK49 is the Jeep Compass
CtCarl. If your ECU is bad, just send it out and have it repaired. Last week I noticed a listing for an ECU repair service on that big auction website for $50. Much less hassle and expense than trying to find a new ECU and flash it to your VIN. This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread.
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And check it out yourself before they install it. Grillcraft SW grill / VIP300C eyelids / HID lows & fogs / LED halos / IPCW tails. SRT8 front lip & rear wing / 15% ceramic tint / JL Audio sound / BT everything. DS Trinity / 180 tstat / AFE CAI / MF hi-flow cats, mids, catback / DMH cutouts. MOOG suspension / R1 Concepts brakes / 20" Konig Blix
I have 122k miles on my 2005 300c. Not including my modifications and normal LOF at 3-4k miles, and tuneups, and tires. My car cost me $90 for 1 hr labor for an electrical issue that the dealer could not fix. 10 minutes on this forum I found the issue to be the #25 fuse at a cost of 2.50. So My total cost in 122k miles is $92.50.
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chrysler 300 srt8 breaking bad